Abi Balingit wins James Beard Award for her desserts cookbook ‘Mayumu’
By Claire Mercado-Obias
In the tiny kitchen of her Brooklyn apartment, Abi Balingit experimented making sweet treats with a Filipino twist. The successful recipes, she posted on her blog, The Dusky Kitchen. One day, a literary agent asked if she wanted to write a cookbook. After a resounding yes, she worked on it during the pandemic, and in 2023, Mayumu: Filipino American Desserts Remixed was published.
“Mayumu is a Filipino American fusion dessert cookbook with 75 recipes and some short stories from my life and my personal baking journey,” says Abi. “It takes a lot of inspiration from my childhood spent in California and the years I’ve spent living in New York.”
Mayumu means “sweet” in Kapampangan, the language in Pampanga where her parents are from. While it contains classic recipes like Minatamis na Bao (coconut jam), Pan de Sal (Philippine bread rolls), and Ginataang Bilo-bilo (coconut soup), most of the recipes are by no means traditional. Take for instance Adobo Chocolate Chip Cookies, Taho Panna Cotta, and Matcha Pastillas, where Abi bolsters Filipino cuisine with a push for ingenuity.
In June 2024, Abi won the “Emerging Voice Award” at the James Beard Foundation Awards. Held annually, this is the Academy Awards of the culinary industry where talented chefs and restaurateurs across the country are recognized and the accompanying media awards honor excellence in culinary-focused books, broadcast media, and journalism.
It’s named after James Beard (May 5, 1903 – January 21, 1985), known as the “Dean of American cookery” who put America at the forefront of global gastronomy. He authored many cookbooks, was host of a cooking show, and owned a cooking school. Throughout his life, he fostered a generation of chefs and cookbook authors who have influenced the way we eat. His legacy continues through the James Beard Foundation, leading the culinary industry towards a new standard of excellence. The James Beard House and Platform by JBF, a kitchen events and educational space, are both located in New York City.
“The Emerging Voice Award recognizes work of immediate impact and lasting significance by a first-time published author whose unique perspective expands the reach of the subject matter,” explains Dawn Padmore, the foundation’s Vice President of Awards. Quality of writing, clarity of voice, and a fresh point of view were the criteria in choosing the winner.
“The Awards Night was so surreal! I was honored to be there, and I could feel all types of emotions—mostly excitement—buzzing around the room,” Abi recalls. “I got to meet people I’ve been following for a while and reconnect with other friends I’ve gotten to know in the industry.”
Apart from food, Abi also channels her creativity through fashion, and describes what she wore at the awards: “When I found out I was nominated, I wanted to find a showstopper outfit. I love any excuse to dress up since I mostly work from home! And I like to source pieces that are secondhand or handmade. I came across the whimsical octopus headpiece made by Rae Swon and the artist’s craftsmanship blew me away. For events, I tend to wear colors that reflect the cover of my book, so the purple in the hat complemented the vintage hot pink satin skirt and upcycled chartreuse rosette tube top I ended up wearing.”
When she walked up to the podium to receive her award, Abi said in her speech, “As a member of the diaspora, yes, I am American, but first and foremost I am proud to be Filipino. In mainstream media, Filipino food has been anointed the next big thing for what feels like decades. I’m here to say that Filipino food has been here for a long time and it’s here to stay.”
Since that life-changing evening, “James Beard Award Winner” has been annexed to her name, to which she exclaims, “I think it’s proof that all the hard work I’ve put into writing my cookbook was so worth it. I am over the moon to be recognized by such a prestigious organization. I hope this win is the first of many for Filipino cookbook authors, and I think the future’s so bright for my fellow Filipinos in culinary media.”
This year marks the 35th Anniversary of the James Beard Awards. The ceremonies take place on June 14 (Media Awards) and June 16 (Restaurant and Chef Awards) in Chicago. It will be broadcast live on Eater.
These Filipinos are among the finalists hoping to receive the coveted medallion:
- ARCHIPELAGO, Seattle, WA (Outstanding Hospitality finalist)
· Tara Monsod, ANIMAE, San Diego, CA (Best Chef: California finalist)
· Silver Iocovozzi, NENG JR.’S, Asheville, NC (Best Chef: Southeast finalist)
· Jane Sacro Chatham, VICIA, St. Louis, MO (Emerging Chef finalist)
· MARCH, Houston, TX (Outstanding Wine and Other Beverages Program finalist; June Rodil, Master Sommelier, is a Partner and CEO of the restaurant)
· Benedict De La Cruz, NPR.org (Narrative Photography)
Claire Mercado-Obias is a writer, food stylist, and pastry chef based in New Jersey.
